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My buddy told me its not good to run synthetic in the can am motor only mineral oil is this true?? Is it safe to do so?? I heard its bad for the valves.
 
I want a quick lesson on the different weight of oil and when to use them. When is the best time to go to a 10W40 or 0W30. I know that you want to use something a little more viscous in the winter, but I just want one of the scientists on here to give me the true education! Thanks,
Murph
 
hmmm interesting topic here.
 
You asked for a scientist, that's why everyone shut up.
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Either that, or they don't have time to be a tudor.
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I've been looking at this thread to get some good ideas on what to put in both of my rides as soon as the break-in is over. The popular choice seems to be Amsoil. But it's not as easy as driving to the local automotive store. But actually I was able to become a six month preferred buyer which allows you to buy it at "wholesale" prices. It's 20% savings, it's better than a sharp stick in the eye. And I can order it online and not even have to drive to the store.

As far as your question, do you really want a "scientific" answer? Because it doesn't have to be that scientific. The multi-viscocity oils will have a range of operation that they will be within the viscous. In otherwords, a 10W-40 will be thin enough for a cold start, yet be thick enough for a warm engine. A 0W-20 is going to thinner at even colder weather and thinner than the 40 weight when warm. It's not uncommon for manufactures to give multiple range options depending on the temperature that the vehicle is operating in. That's why you may need to use a lower viscocity oil during the winter and higher for the summer. Engine component tolerences and other things also effect the recommened oil viscocity. My Jeep wants a 0W-20 all the time because of tighter tolerences and it saves some on gas (for EPA rating). While my KTM wants 20W-50 because it's expected to run very hard in the heat of the summer.

Check you owners manual and it should tell you what weight you should run during that season. For example, you might run the 0W-30 when you expect to start it at or just below freezing and yet will not be running it when it's 98 degrees. And you would run the 10W-40 when you will NOT start it around freezing and you expect the run it when it is 98 degrees. Your manual should tell you what the ranges are for each oil. There is a lot of leeway here on what oil you run at what temp, that's why it's not really rocket science.

And if you would really like something scientific, I copy/pasted this from a quick search:

Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a st­andard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity).
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
 
My buddy told me its not good to run synthetic in the can am motor only mineral oil is this true?? Is it safe to do so?? I heard its bad for the valves.
That's crazy, the manual says for better performance run 5w30 synthetic xps oil, which is can am oil. Don't run mineral oil that's for skidoo fan cooled sleds.
 
The manual says any 4-stroke oil with an API service label with a least one of the following:SM, SL or SJ.

I'm now using Rotella T full synthetic 4W-50. Locally one gallon goes for $20

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I assume you mean 5W-40. After weeks of gathering info from everyone from here and other sites, I too decided to use Rotella T full synthetic 5W-40. I wanted something that I could run in both my KTM and Can Am. Funny thing is that I already had some from the last time I changed the oil in my diesel tractor. I may run it in everything but the cars.
 
I was thinking of going 5w50 in my 500. I do not ride in the winter and the thicker oil handles the heat better.
 
after reading all this, what are guys flushing with? i have to run a couple changes thru.. (swallowed some water.. ;))

going to buy some cheapo oil for the flushing until good then run full synthetic (i will likely have to wait on the arrival of a new filter thou....
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after reading all this, what are guys flushing with? i have to run a couple changes thru.. (swallowed some water.. ;))

going to buy some cheapo oil for the flushing until good then run full synthetic (i will likely have to wait on the arrival of a new filter thou....
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)
Based on your ride in your sig,, I did not know they had filters, I will have to check out my granddaughters at her next full service
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Wolf
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I assume you mean 5W-40. After weeks of gathering info from everyone from here and other sites, I too decided to use Rotella T full synthetic 5W-40. I wanted something that I could run in both my KTM and Can Am. Funny thing is that I already had some from the last time I changed the oil in my diesel tractor. I may run it in everything but the cars.
Yes, I meant 5W-40
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My buddy told me its not good to run synthetic in the can am motor only mineral oil is this true?? Is it safe to do so?? I heard its bad for the valves.
synthetic oils can not be used on the supercharged Sea Doo's because of the supercharger clutches. It causes them to slip. Not the case with the Can Am's.
 
synthetic oils can not be used on the supercharged Sea Doo's because of the supercharger clutches. It causes them to slip. Not the case with the Can Am's.
Hey Dixie, BRP sent my dealer the bulliten on the supercharged seadoo's, you must run synthetic oil now. I didn't believe it until i read it my self.
 
I want a quick lesson on the different weight of oil and when to use them. When is the best time to go to a 10W40 or 0W30. I know that you want to use something a little more viscous in the winter, but I just want one of the scientists on here to give me the true education! Thanks,
Murph
Here it is.

Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 0W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil.

You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-40.
OEMs typically buy low cost and sometimes low-quality oils from lubricant manufacturers who will private label the oil and send them out for distribution at dealerships. There are several companies who do this for the small engine manufacturers, one is called Lube-Tech. Contrary to consumer perception, OEM lubes often are equal to the performance quality of the cheapest aftermarket oils on store shelves. Dealers can command higher prices simply because the consumer perceives it to be more appropriate for the application. Dealers also will try to pressure a customer to use the oem oil by intimidating them into thinking the warranty is in jeopardy if they don't. Dealers who operate their business in this fashion are dishonest and taking advantage of the customer. This is a very profitable business for the oem's, they offer dealers incentives to buy their lubricants and some even penalize dealers who do not order it.
 
I run Mobil1 or Amsoil 0w40...every time my wife picks it up on her way home from work the parts people always try to tell her she's getting the wrong oil....LOL

Joe
 
Anything wrong with Castrol Syntec ? Full synthetic, can get 5w-40 on sale at Crappy Tire (for Canadians eh) for $29 for 4.4l jug.
 
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