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New owner - 2014 outlander max - gear shift question

19K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  jayrundle  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I just picked up a 2014 outlander max yesterday and have noticed that the gear shift seems stiff and difficult to move between gears. Also sometimes when I put it in park the display still reads reverse. When this happens I shift it back to reverse an into park.

Ice also noticed that when going from low to high (I'm stopped while changing the gear) that a couple of times it's like it stayed in low and then banged into high. (I can't say for certain what th display read during when this happened. )

In any case thanks for reading and if you can shed some light if there is a simple adjustment that will correc the issue that's would be great. :)

P.S - it's a great machine. :)
 
#5 ·
My renegade was a little stiff shifting when new, now that i have 200 miles on it and did the first service, it loosened up and shifts nicely now. Recommend using Amsoil for the gearbox.
 
#10 ·
My 2013 has been the same since new. Its got 900 Km on it and I still have to HUMP the H*ll out of it at least half a dozen times on a ride to get it to shift..especially from H to R. Took it to the useless dealership who said: Apply the brake while shifting and they allegedly lubed or adjusted the linkage. I told them about the "One way bearing FIX" that I've read about online but of course, they wouldn't "Do the work".. USELESS twats!...no change at all and "back to the dealership" is a 5 hour (return) drive away.

Sorry, but It doesn't get any better "over time".. :hairout:

I guess its time for me to replace the OEM "One way" with something better..
 
#12 ·
My 2013 has been the same since new. Its got 900 Km on it and I still have to HUMP the H*ll out of it at least half a dozen times on a ride to get it to shift..especially from H to R. Took it to the useless dealership who said: Apply the brake while shifting and they allegedly lubed or adjusted the linkage. I told them about the "One way bearing FIX" that I've read about online but of course, they wouldn't "Do the work".. USELESS twats!...no change at all and "back to the dealership" is a 5 hour (return) drive away.

Sorry, but It doesn't get any better "over time".. :hairout:

I guess its time for me to replace the OEM "One way" with something better..
Sounds like you have an entire different issue there than the OP. Being that hard to shift, im guessing your linkage needs a bit of adjustment, my Grizzly 700 was very hard to shift and had to rock it to get it between gears all the time, but once i adjusted it properly it was much better.

The little tightness and hard shifting i had disappeared after a few hundred miles were put on it, and good quality amsoil was put into the gearbox (75-140 i believe). Shifts MUCH better now.
 
#14 ·
...Took it to the useless dealership who said: Apply the brake while shifting and they allegedly lubed or adjusted the linkage...

Sounds like you have an entire different issue there than the OP. Being that hard to shift, im guessing your linkage needs a bit of adjustment, my Grizzly 700 was very hard to shift and had to rock it to get it between gears all the time, but once i adjusted it properly it was much better.
It just came back from the dealer where they "serviced" the linkage (see ABOVE).

NO CHANGE
 
#16 ·
...Took it to the useless dealership who said: Apply the brake while shifting and they allegedly lubed or adjusted the linkage...

It just came back from the dealer where they "serviced" the linkage (see ABOVE).

NO CHANGE
As others have said, can am's are a little finicky when shifting gears. I have a '14 and it needs a hump and rock sometimes. No different than my 2010 was. My 2010 improved noticeably when I changed the gearbox fluid.
Sometimes it also takes a second for the correct gear to show in the display. If it stays displaying the improper gear and your sure it's in the correct notch, you will like throw a code and an error message. This is easily fixed by cleaning and re-securing the 3 sensors on the side of the transmission near your right heel when sitting on the bike. Doubt that is the problem though unless you ride in a bunch of mud over a long period of time.
 
#17 ·
As others have said, can am's are a little finicky when shifting gears. I have a '14 and it needs a hump and rock sometimes. No different than my 2010 was. My 2010 improved noticeably when I changed the gearbox fluid.

That'll be done in the Spring before the "season" starts..all new fluids..heres "hoping"

Sometimes it also takes a second for the correct gear to show in the display. If it stays displaying the improper gear and your sure it's in the correct notch, you will like throw a code and an error message. This is easily fixed by cleaning and re-securing the 3 sensors on the side of the transmission near your right heel when sitting on the bike. Doubt that is the problem though unless you ride in a bunch of mud over a long period of time.

This doesn't apply..I can't get it OUT of one gear and into another..the gearshift lever "hangs" and I don't want to FORCE it, shoving over 5-10 ft/lbs..after braking, humping, shaking, reving, it will sometimes GO..sometimes NOT..then REPEAT ...crap!
 
#19 ·
There have been 2 theories about this problem for over 3 Years. The one way bearing and adding Schaeffer MOLY E.P. OIL TREATMANT to the gear case. Do a search on this subject here.

The 1 way barring never worked for long and the problem came back. I liked the posting one owner made. He removed the drive belt and it was still hard to shift. No change.

I used the Moly E P and have not had a problem since. Drain the GC and refill with 2 Oz of Moly EP and the rest with synthetic gear oil 75/90.

I now use the Moly in the GC and both front and rear differential.

The Moly can be a little hard to find and you may have to go on the net and or E-bay.
 
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#21 ·
I just picked up my 2014 a few days ago and noticed the same stiff shifting pattern, almost as if you need to force it into the gear you want, hoping after it breaks in this will improve.. also I noticed that the in drive if you release the throttle the maching rolls backwards almost freely where my grizz would roll backwards but not as freely (almost as there was some engine breaking mechanism that was holding it from free rolling backwards when in drive) Any insight into this with Can-Am Outlanders as this is my first Can-am machine (aside from my sled)???