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Before I call Fox...

I have Fox Podium X's for my 09 outlander

For some reason, my High Speed Compression (HSC) adjusters don't have the noticeable "click" that the low speed compression (LSC) and rebound has...this isn't on just one of the shocks, it's on ALL of them...

I adjusted all of the clickers all the way out (counter-clockwise). I went counter-clockwise until the adjuster wouldn't turn anymore, then went back clockwise to the first click "0" and went 18 clicks clockwise (Cecco reccommended this in a previous post on Podium set-up). Both Rebound and LSC had obvious "clicks". The first time I did this with the HSC, it seemed to have a "notch" type feeling, which I am assuming is how it's supposed to feel for a "click"....as it got to the point to where the HSC adjuster stopped turning, I started clockwise to get to 18 clicks (I put all of my adjusters to 18 to get a baseline). As I went further clockwise with the HSC, the "clicks" became less and less noticeable to the point to now there are NO "clicks" it just threads in and out. I now have NO IDEA how far an actual "click" is on the HSC (I can't imagine a full turn of the adjuster nut is considered one click).

My question is, I turned my low speed adjuster as I mentioned above...FIRST...does the adjustment of the low speed (or the rebound for that matter) have anything to do with the adjustment of the HSC? By this I mean, does either loosening or tightening of the LSC have anything to do with how the clickers feel/work on the HSC? I REALLY hope I don't have to send these back to Fox, as I just got these things...

It is not like I used a 1/2 impact wrench to make these adjustments, so I can't imagine that I damaged anything, but it is weird how ALL 4 of my shocks are like this...

Any thoughts before I call Fox and sound like an idiot?
 

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Before I call Fox...

I have Fox Podium X's for my 09 outlander

For some reason, my High Speed Compression (HSC) adjusters don't have the noticeable "click" that the low speed compression (LSC) and rebound has...this isn't on just one of the shocks, it's on ALL of them...

I adjusted all of the clickers all the way out (counter-clockwise). I went counter-clockwise until the adjuster wouldn't turn anymore, then went back clockwise to the first click "0" and went 18 clicks clockwise (Cecco reccommended this in a previous post on Podium set-up). Both Rebound and LSC had obvious "clicks". The first time I did this with the HSC, it seemed to have a "notch" type feeling, which I am assuming is how it's supposed to feel for a "click"....as it got to the point to where the HSC adjuster stopped turning, I started clockwise to get to 18 clicks (I put all of my adjusters to 18 to get a baseline). As I went further clockwise with the HSC, the "clicks" became less and less noticeable to the point to now there are NO "clicks" it just threads in and out. I now have NO IDEA how far an actual "click" is on the HSC (I can't imagine a full turn of the adjuster nut is considered one click).

My question is, I turned my low speed adjuster as I mentioned above...FIRST...does the adjustment of the low speed (or the rebound for that matter) have anything to do with the adjustment of the HSC? By this I mean, does either loosening or tightening of the LSC have anything to do with how the clickers feel/work on the HSC? I REALLY hope I don't have to send these back to Fox, as I just got these things...

It is not like I used a 1/2 impact wrench to make these adjustments, so I can't imagine that I damaged anything, but it is weird how ALL 4 of my shocks are like this...

Any thoughts before I call Fox and sound like an idiot?
Sorry I have not had a chance to call but your first problem was easily found by reading your first paragraph..

For instance you always set your suspension up for the valves "closed" position meaning turn the adjuster in all the way clockwise and then count the clicks out as you "open" the valve. Those adjusters range from 20-24 clicks to open so if your opening it up to say 24 clicks by going counter clockwise and close it by turning 18 turns clockwise that means you have a ton of valving or say your setting are only in the 3-4 range which will make you quad ride very stiff!

The other benefit of starting in the "closed" position is that the screw valve is now in the same position for all shocks where if you started in the "open" position your shocks will never be identical since some adjusters go 20 clicks - some go 24 clicks and so on. Starting in the open position and closing the valve by turning it clockwise will make your suspension unballanced...

So for all adjustments : high speed, low speed and rebound always start with the adjuster turned fully clockwise. Then the first click counter clockwise from fully closed is "zero" next click is "1".

Start here:

Ride height -

With you standing on the quads footpegs - not sitting but standing - set your ride height to 8.5" front and 8.75" rear. The real goal here is to set your quad level between the front & rear. Measure from ground to bottom of the skid plate in front at location between the front A-arms and in the rear measure frame to ground below your rear brake disk. You may find a few people tell you to sit to do this measurement but I have found it is really hard to sit in the same spot again & again which can throw off your rear ground to frame ride height. Standing on the pegs is more accurate and I have found having the rear 1/4" higher while standing will give you a level stance when sitting.

Keep in mind your ride height can vary from tire sizes. The best way to find out what your ride height will be for the shocks to work properly is to put the whole quad on a stand so there is no weight on the tires. Loosen the top spring preload adjuster and turn it out till you have not preload in the the springs but with the preload adjuster just touching the springs. At that point add 1" preload to the front springs and 1.25" preload to the rear springs. Set your quad down then and bounce on the pegs and have a friend check your ride height front & rear and use the average between the two as your "goal ride height for the front". Meaning with your shocks preloaded as told above if your front ride height is 9" and rear is 8.75" with you on the pegs your goal ride height should be 8.875" for the front and rear..

Now go back to the 1st paragraph about ride height and get it set so that your 1/8" - 1/4" higher in the rear than the front while standing on pegs. This measurement should settle to same front & rear ride height when you sit down.

Clicker adjustments -

Low speed 18 clicks out from close front - 15 clicks out from close rear.

High Speed 15 clicks out front & rear.

Rebound 15 clicks out from close front - 12 clicks out from close rear.

Crossovers -

Crossovers are located inside of the upper spring. There are 2 threaded collars and are easily adjusted with a screwdriver or punch. FYI you will make marks on them from adjusting and it's perfectly fine and there is really no great tool to do this properly. If fox adjusted them for you they would have a hammer & screwdriver to break them loose & tighten them.

Setting crossovers is alot harder - sometimes it takes a large or heavy "friend" to help you out. The purpose of the cross over is to control when your upper and lower springs go from being a combination of the two to all the load going to one which is the manin spring (largest one on bottom).

To set cross overs you first need to loosen the 2 crossover rings which are right hand thread. Second have friend stand on the front bumper and compress the suspension to within 1" of the top of the bumpstop. Now adjust the cross over rings to touch the seperation plastic seperation ring between the upper & lower spring. What this does is for your last 2 inches of travel (1" shaft and 1" bumpstop which will compress to 1/4") you will be on the main spring to help prevent bottoming.

Same goes for the rear - 1" to top of bumpstop with suspension compressed.
 

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Before someone tells you to read the Elka Suspension shock setup directions do what I suggest above. I just gave you the fast track to setting up Fox shocks for a renegade or outlander - not Elka or any other brand.

If you are running stock Outlander rear TTI arms and front upper shock mounts lessen your starting spring preload to .75" front and 1" rear on the springs. The stock Outlander TTI arms and upper shock mounts have less "leverage" on the suspension compaired to a Renegade or Outlander with Renegade upper shock mounts in front & Renegade TTI arms in rear and if I remember correctly that's what you have.

One other item - You have to be 100% Outlander TTI arms and upper shock mounts or 100% Renegade TTI arms & upper shock mounts. You cannot mix the two..
 

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Rick, i have a dumb question. are the top spring preload adjusters the same as the 2 threaded collars? And will adjusting the crossovers knock off your ride height? Does this make any sense? There is only one spring adjusment right? Im a little confused.
 

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Dark star - the tenders are perfect for 175-200 lb riders. More aggressive riders have upped the front main spring to 145-150 range w success.

C1racing- the top preload collar is for ride height. The crossovers found at the tender spring (upper spring) do not effect ride height. The crossovers only control the point in the shocks travel that the dual spring transitions to the main spring. With that said you could control ride height w crossover by drawing it down into the main spring which would completely eliminate the tender springs purpose.

For instance most fox shocks come with 135 main front spring and 600 tender. What that tender does is lessen the actual total of the two spring rates by combining the two make the primary rate 110lb until it crosses over to just the main which is 135lb.
 

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Common front main spring upgrade is the 145lb. Last I checked you cannot custom order those springs w your podiums - they will come with 135lb mains. Not sure why but even I have to buy the heavier springs seperate hence I have several new sets of 135s here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rick,

I greatly appreciate your EXTREMELY in-depth "how-to"...I printed it and put it with my shock set-up binder...I am going to tackle this next wednesday, I'm pretty confident now!
 

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Will these settings work on the Factory Fox Shox on a 2012 Renegade Xxc?

There is another thread that says start full CCW (soft) then CW out.

What you say about the valves closed (starting from CW (hard) and then go CCW (soft) sounds good.

So let me see if this is right......CCW = Soft or faster Damping and CW = Hard or slower Damping

I need a good starting point for my 2012 Renegade Xxc. I'm 270lbs and ride like a 50 year old Motocrosser that thinks he is 20 again
 

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Don't know which post is correct. I was getting info from Canam forums.com.
I'm just mad that there isn't much info on setting up the Xxc fox shocks. The service manual is useless.
I asked my dealer and they said break in the .machine and then start changing settings.
I understand how to set ride height, HSC, LSC & rebound and what they all do but, are my stock springs enough for my weight and riding style? From the factory my Rene Xxc was / is too stiff and would bounce me off the seat.
I really just want to know where to start with sag.
I'm going to start with 3" of sag and all the damping in the middle and see how the bike handles and go from there, with lots of notes.
 

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Don't know which post is correct. I was getting info from Canam forums.com.
I'm just mad that there isn't much info on setting up the Xxc fox shocks. The service manual is useless.
I asked my dealer and they said break in the .machine and then start changing settings.
I understand how to set ride height, HSC, LSC & rebound and what they all do but, are my stock springs enough for my weight and riding style? From the factory my Rene Xxc was / is too stiff and would bounce me off the seat.
I really just want to know where to start with sag.
I'm going to start with 3" of sag and all the damping in the middle and see how the bike handles and go from there, with lots of notes.
Best thing you can do is mess around with the settings, its hard to learn by reading on the internet. the old kyb come set with the hs and ls compression set at 9 and the rebound on 15. the majoriy of the bounce comes from the high rebound settings on the olld xxc modles. if you lower the rebound to around 5 or so it evens out and feels alot more plush. i had the fox podiums and had a hard time getting them right and i messed them alot, i had great luck with the kybs and im running them again with out issue. the more you ride and the more you become familiar with them the easier it will get.
 

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Mikey,

I think you are referring to this thread (specifically post #12)

http://www.can-amtalk.com/forums/topic/27361-fox-podium-set-up-help/

This is why I was confused also...
I am not sure about the confusion?

Any shock out there the only place to start counting the settings is from the valve fully closed (clockwise), turn one click out CCW is zero and go from there.

As far possible confusion if I am talking in regards to Can Am factory KYB's or Fox Shox - I am not. My settings are only for the Fox Podium purchased directly from Fox.

Also - I have not tested the new Fox Podiums that come with the XXC's on G2 Chassis so I have no suggestions.
 

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Rick, Thanks for your replies,

The Confusion came from another Can Am forum and another thread in this forum said to start out full CCW and then count your clicks CW to your desired settings.

What you say about starting CW closes the valve makes sense and that's what I'm going with.

I'm really mad at BRP for not providing any instructions on how to set-up the FOX Podium RC2 Suspension on the Xxc models other than CCW is soft and CW is hard.

This is what I'm starting with on my next ride. 30% sag front & rear HSC,LSC and rebound in the middle and work from there and take lots of notes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wellll...I had a buddy come over that weighs as much as me and set these up as Cecco suggested...I had an issue adjusting the crossover rings as they would not budge! It got to the point to where I stopped, because I thought I was going to break something if I kept wacking it with a punch and hammer! As far as preload, I didn't have to touch the adjuster from the way that Fox sent them to me...I set all the LSC, rebound, and HSC as Cecco said...HSC adjustments were difficult, still, because of the issue I stated with the "clicker" (or lack thereof!) in the first post of this thread. I got it close, but being a perfectionist, I couldn't get them "exact"

The Ride...
I really can't give a very good review because there was 8" of snow on the ground and I had the zilla's (my snow tires) on each with like 3 lbs of pressure...I did get a chance to hit a single jump about 8-10 straight times to test out the HSC...the suspension would feel as if it was bottoming out, but def. was not bucking back...when I was done and parked the machine to BS with the guys I noticed my front end was VISIBLY sagging...to the point where I thought they had collapsed...I could lift up on the front bumper and the shock would rise, but fell back to that sag again, which I felt wasn't right...I kept riding it and the next stop it was back where it was prior to all the jumping...

Conclusion...

There really isn't much of a conclusion! I still have some work to do on them, which is understandable...I am a little perturbed about the lack of click from the HSC and the collapsed look of the front end after jumping it several times...

I'm going to get with Cecco on this when our schedules suit!
 

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Wellll...I had a buddy come over that weighs as much as me and set these up as Cecco suggested...I had an issue adjusting the crossover rings as they would not budge! It got to the point to where I stopped, because I thought I was going to break something if I kept wacking it with a punch and hammer! As far as preload, I didn't have to touch the adjuster from the way that Fox sent them to me...I set all the LSC, rebound, and HSC as Cecco said...HSC adjustments were difficult, still, because of the issue I stated with the "clicker" (or lack thereof!) in the first post of this thread. I got it close, but being a perfectionist, I couldn't get them "exact"

The Ride...
I really can't give a very good review because there was 8" of snow on the ground and I had the zilla's (my snow tires) on each with like 3 lbs of pressure...I did get a chance to hit a single jump about 8-10 straight times to test out the HSC...the suspension would feel as if it was bottoming out, but def. was not bucking back...when I was done and parked the machine to BS with the guys I noticed my front end was VISIBLY sagging...to the point where I thought they had collapsed...I could lift up on the front bumper and the shock would rise, but fell back to that sag again, which I felt wasn't right...I kept riding it and the next stop it was back where it was prior to all the jumping...

Conclusion...

There really isn't much of a conclusion! I still have some work to do on them, which is understandable...I am a little perturbed about the lack of click from the HSC and the collapsed look of the front end after jumping it several times...

I'm going to get with Cecco on this when our schedules suit!
That collapsed look is because you dont have enough preload in the fronts. What happened is you opened up your valving a considerable amount which is now letting the shock use all of the shaft. It's time to find your base ride height and adjust the fronts accordingly.

The cross overs are right hand thread. To loosen them you need to tap upper ring to the left (as if you were loosening preload nut) or tap the lower ring to the right (as if you were tighening the pro load nut) They may have mud behind them so I would spray some lubricant on the threads to soak in and loosen the mud/dirt.

The high speed clicker may be fatigued from you opening the valve the wrong way (fully counterclockwise) and then taking it a step further (additional turn) when you wanted to make sure you were starting at zero. The high speed valve is not damaged its just the clicker may be fatigued. I use a socket wrench to adjust mine which works well and may help your hear or feel it better.
 

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2013 Outty Max XT-P Factory Settings:

LS Front (0+15 clicks) LS Rear (0+11)
HS Front (0+12 clicks) HS Rear (0+16)
Rebound Front (0+9) Rebound Rear (0+9)

I have not measured preload yet. Like some other posters, at least 2 of my shocks did not have audible clicks...nor clicks that you could feel. I was not able to be 100% sure I was adjusting them equally.

Has anyone found the magic numbers for this ATV and a 200 lb semi-aggresive rider yet??? I played with it once today and what I tried made the ride very smooth, however when pushing down in the front end it seemed like you had to wait for it to rise back up into normal position. I also noticed it bottoming out more in the hard packed snow. I'm assuming that is probably the desired result of things being properly adjusted but I don't know enough about what I'm doing to leave the machine with those settings. I ended up putting them back to stock.

Unfortunately, I there are not very many Can-Am riders around here so I doubt I'll be able to find someone locally who can help me adjust my suspension...guess I'll have to keep reading.

Thanks!
 

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Shock settings are 100% rider preference and rider style. You need to have a specific complaint, to get more specific direction in how to help you.
Pushing on the racks, tells you nothing. If your complaint is bottoming out, your compression needs to be stiffened up a bit. Adjust in small increments. 2 clicks at a time... Ride and see how it feels. Adjusting suspension isn't something your going to set up once and leave forever. My opinion. Set it back to stock. If its too harsh. Soften the compression setting and ride it for awhile and see how it goes. Still to harsh, soften some more. Etc etc. I make adjustments all the time. I usually make an adjustment, then ride all day. At the end of the day I still didn't like something, ill make a tweak and see how it works the next ride. Others wise you'll be chasing your tail in circles. Obviously if I make a really bad adjustment ill go back ASAP and try something else. Can't ride a bike that's trying to buck you off haha
 
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