Can-Am ATV & UTV Forums banner
1 - 12 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody, I am new here. I have a 2018 Can Am Outlander 650 Max Xt. I recently replaced the bearings & seals on my rear differential as well as both U Joints on the rear drive shaft and the Yoke closest to the dif. During a slow test drive I noticed a sorta humming sound coming from my rear end. I jacked it up & the humming sound gets a lot louder during acceleration, but seems to go away when off the throttle……

Any info would be much appreciated as I really don’t want to rip the rear end appart again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info! I didn’t know anything about phasing. Watched a few videos, took a quick look at my drive shaft and just with my eye I can tell it is not right. Wondering now how I would have thrown it out of sync? Also will I need to remove the drive shaft to phase it properly or is there a trick? I’m thinking maybe I just have to take it out of the rear diff and leave the gear box side alone….I will likely look at it early next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I took the shaft out and everything seems to be ok with it. With it out I spun the tires and the sound is clearly come from the rear differential. I had replaced the bearings and seals with a All Balls Racing kit. All the gears looked ok with no wear to speak of. I made sure all the shims went back the same way. So what could it be? Should I just drive it and worst case I blow the rear diff up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I used a press and was on the right part of the bearings. I’m not sure about the pinion bearing, I’m pretty sure I bottomed that one out up against the shims. The other 3 for the drive shaft and axles I pressed in flush with the casing.

I may have worded the sound wrong by saying Humming. It’s hard to tell but I just posted this video to you tube, I hope the link works. Weird you can’t upload straight here.

And ya I know I wouldn’t want to blow anything up! For all I know this sound is ok and everything is fine….

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I may have mixed the shims up, I shouldn’t have but I do have pictures to double check once I open it back up. I will also check the backlash. I do have the full manual.

Must be something as simple as shims. Unless your replace any gears then the shims should just go back where they came from right? Or do you need to re shim with just changing bearings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I finally got around to getting my diff back out. I’ve confirmed that the shims all went back the same way they came out from my pictures I had taken initially. All the bearings were seated the whole way home.

I think I know the culprit, taking a closer look at the pinion gear all the teeth look warn on both sides. They all look the same so I’m not sure if in fact if it is warn or is the way it should be. I snapped a few shots.
Automotive tire Bottle Motor vehicle Tableware Bicycle part
Tire Automotive tire Bumper Rim Motor vehicle
Drinkware Fluid Bicycle part Liquid Material property
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also my 3rd last post I was mixed up when talking about bottoming out the bearings and was thinking of the seals when I said: “The other 3 for the drive shaft and axles I pressed in flush with the casing” anyhow cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok that makes sense! Another $150 if nothing at this point. I’ll call to order it in the am.

I’m just concerned now about re shimming. As I understand the pinion takes 1 that’s 1.67mm (or stock in my case was .556mm X 3), Stock on the crown gear had two 7 notch on the gear side and one 4 notch on other. I’m not sure what the thickness of the 4 or 7 notch are but BRP can only give me .02mm shims for the crown, it calls for one on each side. Doesn’t make much sense to me so I ordered 4 thinking what I already have should work
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks sounds good. I got a new shim for the pinion which is the 1.67mm that it calls for, just weird that the crown only calls for .02mm each side.

Anyhow I’ll address that issue when the parts come in…..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
If the cases are ok, then just change the gears, but do both.
The crown wheel teeth may look fine to the naked eye, but they will have a wear pattern in them.
If you reuse the crown wheel, you'll have trouble getting a good tooth mesh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hey ozymax,

I finally got the ring/crown gear in. Was lucky to get the last one from a place outside of Boston USA. Being from Ontario Canada it was tricky lol. (god dam covid)

My local dealer gave me more than enough shims to deal with. We bought the tool to measure the backlash, but not the preload at this point.!

I am concerned now of shimming properly. As I see on the web, BRP did not shim properly from factory. I only have just over 2000km on the quad

Any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated
 
1 - 12 of 14 Posts
Top