Can-Am ATV & UTV Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a high flow water pump on ebay (221216933507) and was wondering if anyone has tried one?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,707 Posts
A couple of years back there was talk about them, try a search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
if memory correct, jean-hugues sells them? I think he is in France & has used them possible along with an larger rad. That is his user name on this forum. Like Skioutty suggested, do a search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Yes I run one and I sell them too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Please contact Renelander to buy high flow water pumps.

He sell to usa and canada.

It's the same pump that I sold last year.

I don't sell them because I don't have time now

THX.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,208 Posts
The High Flow water pump will only hinder the cooling system to keep the engine cool. The big problem is that your thermostat will be wide open when the engine is running hot. (Temp over 170*) What will happen is the HF water pump will be pushing the water to fast and water in the engine will not have time to absorb the heat in the engine metal and at the same time the water will not spend enough time in the rad to start to cool the water. If you are running a fan controller to bring the fan on at 160 and off at 150 the stat will be just short of closed and the stock pump will pump more water that is needed to keep the engine cool. In fact the pump will be building up pressure because the stat is near closed.I did testing of the stock cooling system last spring and the stock water pump with the aid of a fan controller would keep the engine at 150* no matter how hard I worked the bike. I keep the bike in low range with tack speed in the high range and the bike never got above 160.The one sure thing that the HF pump will cool is your wallet after you shell out the $200 that it was selling for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,991 Posts
My motor won't run under 225* no matter if the fan is on 100% of the time or not. So maybe I should just take the impeller completly out and really slow the flow down and it will never heat up? Some motors and cooling systems benefit from slowing down flow some need more Gen 1 systems need more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,208 Posts
My motor won't run under 225* no matter if the fan is on 100% of the time or not.
How can lunatic try and compair his bike to a stock 800 for cooling. He added another 308 CC and tune master and thinks the stock cooling system should handle the problem. Read his spec sheet. nothing was done to improve the cooling system when it is marginal to handle the 800.

No it is you "Your idiotic thinking just amazes me."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,208 Posts
Test that stock pump to see if you need more cooling water moved. If you have a fan controller turn it OFF. Put the gear shift in low range and run the bike as fast as it will go for 10 miles. This way the engine is producing the most heat it can. Going up hill will ever produce more heat. You will find that the fan never came on. You will also find that the stat is near closed and the water temp in the engine is max of 155 + or - a little. The water temp coming out of the rad is below 120 and most likely will below 110. The pump is robbing power from the engine because it is pumping against a dead head because the stat is near closed. There is very little water movement.

If you check the temp of the oil in the sump you will find it to be about 185 and the oil leaving the oil filter around 140. These temp in the oil are because the CA oil cooler is now working.
 

·
JBIRD
Joined
·
13,704 Posts
You can also try Evans coolant, it actually took longer for the fan to cycle with Evans, then it did with the factory coolant. It's a Waterless coolant and has a higher boiling point, will never corrode your internal engine parts and you'll never have to change the coolant again with this stuff. My Renegade ran cooler all day and hardly heard my fan kit on, no BS. I'm not saying the Hi Flow pumps don't work or help, but this stuff does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
It is with great curiosity that I watch this ongoing issue of overheating with these can am ATVs. I have struggled with it and have rebuilt several engines with good success. The very first thing is to increase the radiator size, along with a fan controller to turn on the weak factory fan at 160 F instead of 208 (20late) degrees.This idea that you are going to "flow too fast" is beyond silly. Fluid flow rates and heat retention and dissipation are relative to volume surface contact and the capability to absorb and release that heat. In short: bigger engine, more heat, bigger radiator more heat dissipation. It's been posted here the thermostat will restrict the flow and increase pressure. Absolutely false. Pressure is set by the rad cap spring. Also, a water neck gasket will replace the thermostat and allow full flow. Keep in mind that factory tune advances timing (=heat) and runs the fuel very lean (=more heat). Any tune that increases fuel mixture and decreases timing advance along with the simple modification of removing the thermostat will solve any over heating. Along with checking the condition of the water pump impeller. Or more specifically the impeller's solid contact with the shaft. 9 out of 10 overheat failures are fixed by the impeller replacement with a aluminum one or even loctite on the threads of the terribly poor factory impeller. They often seem to run fine at idle but spin uselessly at speed.In summation: Proper impeller, reduced advance, richen mixture and turn the fan on sooner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,545 Posts
Riggy, how did you increase the radiator size on the G1, if i remember right you had a G1 outlander, definitely more room to increase size in an outlander over a renegade. Im rebuilding a 2011 G1 Outlander 800 Xxc right now and looking for options as i need a new radiator. I'm either going with a built 840 or 1000R swap so a larger volume radiator would be great.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top