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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
If you don't seal/glue the bushing to the bracket, when you go to pump grease through the bushing, the grease will take the path of least resistance and simply squeeze out around the back of the bushing and that's not where you want it.
 

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If you don't seal/glue the bushing to the bracket, when you go to pump grease through the bushing, the grease will take the path of least resistance and simply squeeze out around the back of the bushing and that's not where you want it.
Gotcha. So with the sealant your basically forcing the grease to the column and around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Each connector has a small release tag on the back of the plug/socket, that you have to pick at with a small screw driver to release it from the bracket.
Similar to how you uncouple the connector.
The plastic brake bracket was trimmed in situ by using a handheld hacksaw blade. The plastic is pretty soft and easy to cut.
 

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Each connector has a small release tag on the back of the plug/socket, that you have to pick at with a small screw driver to release it from the bracket.
Similar to how you uncouple the connector.
The plastic brake bracket was trimmed in situ by using a handheld hacksaw blade. The plastic is pretty soft and easy to cut.
Got it! Trimmed the bracket, removed the connectors out of the way easy. I won’t be able to crimp a hoe on a grease fitting like that - any issues by installed a regular 90deg zerk and then using one of the couplers on the hose to attach to it? I’d twist the coupler and lock it basically to the zerk.

Or you have a better recommendation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I wouldn't mind betting one of those connectors would vibrate loose and with the bike back together again, it would be hard to re-fit it.

You could possibly just use some small diameter hose and a hose clamp to secure it to the grease fitting.
The grease isn't really under any amount of pressure.
If you were to go this way, I'd drill out the ball from the fitting, just so the grease doesn't have to push past the ball and spring.
 

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I wouldn't mind betting one of those connectors would vibrate loose and with the bike back together again, it would be hard to re-fit it.

You could possibly just use some small diameter hose and a hose clamp to secure it to the grease fitting.
The grease isn't really under any amount of pressure.
If you were to go this way, I'd drill out the ball from the fitting, just so the grease doesn't have to push past the ball and spring.
You got a point.. I figured tightening the coupler on would hold more than a hose clamp?

This is what I envisioned to use, other end I’d match up another grease fitting to have near the pod to connect my gun to. The coupler would be at the bushing..
Auto part Font Cable Engineering Wire
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
No.
I used nylon pneumatic hose that was heated and forced over the grease fitting.
I then slid a short length of aluminum tube over the line and crimped it in place with a press former that I made.
Instead of crimping like I did, you could use twitch wire below the bulge of the fitting.
 

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No.
I used nylon pneumatic hose that was heated and forced over the grease fitting.
I then slid a short length of aluminum tube over the line and crimped it in place with a press former that I made.
Instead of crimping like I did, you could use twitch wire below the bulge of the fitting.
Last question, the lower fitting - any reason it can’t be more off to the side to clear the tie rods? I wouldnt think it mattered or affected the overall greasing operation as long as it clears the tie-rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
If you move the fitting to the side, it will be harder to seal the bushing to the bracket.
The bushing has a thick rib cast in it along the center line where the hole gets drilled.
 
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