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Engine Braking Intermittent

9K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  DjEclipse 
#1 ·
My 2016 850 Outlander Max XT has 10 hours and I have had the engine brake fail to engage about 7-8 times since new. When it fails to engage, I hear a very loud banging, rattling type sound. Is this the belt slapping around in the clutch? Even if I am below the engagement speed starting down a hill, I don't expect to hear noise like that from a new machine. Do you guys have any suggestions? I'll be taking it to the dealer soon for the 10 hour service and would appreciate any direction you can give me on this. Thanks.

Rambo
 
#2 ·
I'll be taking it to the dealer soon for the 10 hour service and would appreciate any direction you can give me on this.
Although my quad is a 2016 450 is the 10 hr service recommended for the 2016 850?

Seem pretty early.

What does the manual call for?

My first required service is at 50 hours 1,000 miles.

Dealer looking for an extra service call?

As for the engine brake problem yes that should be looked at as it shouldn't fail & mine never has in just over 26 hrs.
 
#7 ·
Seems the secondary needs to be tighter, or it's hanging up, or the belt is too long, or the one-way bearing in the primary is fubared......
 
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#8 ·
i would find a new dealer.... a good brp tech would of found the problem with the clutches... there is something wrong... dont ride it like that... take it to another dealer... this is warranty anyways,,,
 
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#9 ·
Thanks for the ideas. I'll check the belt. Also it seems to happen after an hour or more so I'm thinking it might be temperature related. I guess changing gears or going in and out of park must reseat the belt for a while. The engine brake is strong and works 90% of the time. Very strange.
 
#10 ·
you can think and guess whatever you want sir.... there is something wrong...belts do not have to reseat either... please DONT ride it or you could do more damage... if your dealer is that stupid and cant fix clutches then you must find a new dealer that can... its warranty for you anyways, like i said ...
 
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#13 ·
The Can Am engine braking usually works right down to a crawl in my experience. Clutches with no 1-way bearing tend to "declutch" at 5-10 mph....ish.
 
#15 ·
The way I understand it, is EB is done below 10 mph and affected by the one way bearing, so no free wheeling unless you happen to touch the throttle. I think anything above 10 mph is actually the torque of the motor slowing you done.

Is this correct?
 
#18 ·
Every can am I've been on with stock clutching has had engine braking all the way down.
To the point where I use engine breaking a lot.

I can't get the video to play cause crap internet.
But a bad one way will do what you describe.

Life feels like that final exam I didn't study for.
 
#19 ·
My EBing will take me almost to a stop...either way just based on the noise alone on your vid that is no way normal.
At the end of Part 1 in the video my engine brake is stopping hard like yours, once I go in and out of park or another gear which hides the problem. I was just trying to understand the failure a bit better. In other words, would a failing 1-way bearing cause the freewheeling, and also all that clattering when it is freewheeling.

I'm trying to get a new clutch under warranty, but this one has me stumped right now.
 
#20 ·
Every can am I've been on with stock clutching has had engine braking all the way down.
To the point where I use engine breaking a lot.
I can't get the video to play cause crap internet.
But a bad one way will do what you describe.
Life feels like that final exam I didn't study for.
Our posts crossed. Thanks, that's what I was wondering. Would the clattering noise be the belt, or helix, or something else? I hope the video works for you next try.
 
#22 ·
At the end of Part 1 in the video my engine brake is stopping hard like yours, once I go in and out of park or another gear which hides the problem. I was just trying to understand the failure a bit better. In other words, would a failing 1-way bearing cause the freewheeling, and also all that clattering when it is freewheeling.

I'm trying to get a new clutch under warranty, but this one has me stumped right now.
Not sure about what exactly your issue is but if your dealer says that's normal and don't fix it I'd be one pissed off hombre if I were you.
 
#23 ·
Got the video to load.

I'm with everyone else here.
Park it. Seriously.
It sounds like a couple of different things to me but a video leaves a lot to the imagination.

Find another dealer. Or Find someone who knows BRP and can take a look.

Part of what I hear sounds like it's trying to slip out of gear.
But, it wouldn't go away if you gave t fuel, it would get worse if it was slipping a gear. You mentioned if you switch ranges it gets better? I guess it's possible the shift linkage is out of whack and it's literally grinding gears a little. It would also explain if it's slipping ranges why engine braking comes and goes.
Just thinking out loud.

I wouldn't ride it. If it's under warranty I would let a dealer who has a clue sort it out.
If it were mine it would spread apart on garage floor by now.

Something is wrong. It should not sounds like that.....ever.

Life feels like that final exam I didn't study for.
 
#24 ·
Not sure about what exactly your issue is but if your dealer says that's normal and don't fix it I'd be one "edit for bad language" off hombre if I were you.
The dealer is trying, and even disassemble/serviced/reassembled the clutch for free as part of the 10 hour service. All their inspections passed. I have to wait for BRP to go through the video and my written history of the failure and recommend a new clutch or whatever.
 
#25 ·
Got the video to load.

I'm with everyone else here.
Park it. Seriously.
It sounds like a couple of different things to me but a video leaves a lot to the imagination.

Find another dealer. Or Find someone who knows BRP and can take a look.

Part of what I hear sounds like it's trying to slip out of gear.
But, it wouldn't go away if you gave t fuel, it would get worse if it was slipping a gear. You mentioned if you switch ranges it gets better? I guess it's possible the shift linkage is out of whack and it's literally grinding gears a little. It would also explain if it's slipping ranges why engine braking comes and goes.
Just thinking out loud.

I wouldn't ride it. If it's under warranty I would let a dealer who has a clue sort it out.
If it were mine it would spread apart on garage floor by now.

Something is wrong. It should not sounds like that.....ever.

Life feels like that final exam I didn't study for.
Arghh! I'm scheduled to go to New Denver, BC (Sandon, Mt Idaho, Kaslo) for 4 days, then Slocan Valley (Mount Ruppel), then Trout Lake/Duncan Dam/Meadow Mountain for 5 days.

When I gas it, it grabs strong and no more clattering, full power. It only clatters when I start descending, probably when I let off the throttle and expect the engine brake to kick in. It seems to happen about once an hour, and when it happens, I can put it in park, or change gears, and the bike runs perfectly for another hour. I think the software has a function in it called "Let'sScrewRamboEveryHour();". The engine braking is perfect 90+% of the time, and randomly decides to freewheel and clatter when the function above is called.

Since it's so close to working, I guess the dealer wouldn't be able to see anything obvious. That's why I'm pushing for a complete clutch replacement and I think they are starting to agree.

I really appreciate all the help I'm getting on this site - fantastic feedback! Thanks again.
 
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