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St8 E

Member Since 26 Mar 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 04:12 PM

#853265 Aftermarket Power Steering 2016

Posted by St8 E on 09 October 2019 - 03:37 PM


GREATLY appreciate the update...

It’s been a while since I dumped money into my machine....maybe it’s due?!?

(7Shortmag is cringing at this post, right now...!!)

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#852907 can am outlander brake pad replacement

Posted by St8 E on 23 January 2019 - 12:13 AM

Just my .02 on Neutron’s

I bought 3 pairs of them a while back from Rocky Mtn...I used them on the rear of my Outlander. I blew through them about as fast as the stock brake pads...Great price, but (for me) didn’t last long. I went back to EBC’s and they have been there for 3 years...

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#850786 09 800 outlander won't rev out

Posted by St8 E on 14 April 2018 - 04:58 PM

This seems dumb...and I always suggest doing this when someone has revving issues when fuel has been ruled out. But take your battery out, clean the terminals and battery connections, tighten everything and try riding it again...these machines do some crazy stuff when they aren’t getting enough power for any reason...

It’s worth a try, just to rule it out...

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#848617 If You Can't Buy One.....

Posted by St8 E on 08 February 2018 - 09:03 PM

How do you like that non xl swap series joe? 

Joe and I both used to have the HMF Swamp series....they both had metal fatigue/cracking issues.

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#848185 G1 Renegade Rear LED Tail light

Posted by St8 E on 01 February 2018 - 08:51 AM

Also, to answer your question...yes Kevin if you go the Bluhm route, they will send you the reverse 3 pin plug that you will splice wire-to-wire into your new LED light, as well as the other plug (the Can-Am pigtail) that you will splice into the stock tail light harness...just make sure you ASK FOR THE “Can-Am Pigtail”...they won’t send it unless you ask for it...

That wire that tony linked you to is what the Can-Am pigtail that Bluhm will give you, pretty much, is...

I don’t think they charged me for it...

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#846313 G1 Outlander rear intrusion bar

Posted by St8 E on 11 January 2018 - 01:28 PM

What do you want it for, st8e?
Is your rear diff getting scratched from you bumping in to it when you're parking the snow blower behind it?

Well...I already have had to replace a tail light once....I have no bumper because the stock one won’t fit with my muzzy pipe...I think it would be nice to have one as I ALWAYS worry about getting rear-ended by the goons I ride with (you included!)

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#845434 LightBar

Posted by St8 E on 17 December 2017 - 10:59 AM

I have 2 LED light bars on mine. One 6” on my handlebars, one 10” on my front bumper. They are both wired to turn on when I activate my high beams. I wish I would have wired them onto their own switch going straight to the battery. This way I could turn them on when the key is off. There are times we are stopped at night and need some light. I would rather not have to power my incandescent high beams in the headlight housings with the machine off along with everything else, because they probably pull as much (if not more) than both of my LED’s.
I suppose I could still re-wire these to do what I want, but as others have mentioned...I haven’t found a non-annoying, super weatherproof switch.

It’s all about the aesthetics on my garage queen!

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#840522 New tires and spacers?

Posted by St8 E on 29 September 2017 - 05:31 AM

If you are putting stock sized tires on stock wheels and you are getting any type of rubbing...I would be concerned...

Something is bent/broken in your front end. Putting spacers on won’t fix that problem, obviously! Fix it right...

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#840482 New to me 2010 800r XT

Posted by St8 E on 28 September 2017 - 03:15 PM

As far as fluids...I would change them all out so YOU know they are fresh.

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#839601 You Know, It's Wierd.

Posted by St8 E on 07 September 2017 - 09:06 AM

I'm almost at the end of my rope with mine, Kev...

I miss the days of pushing the green button and my machine starts right up and idles forever, regardless of the temp. outside. I'm about sick of fighting with this thing to get it to run right...

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#837930 mid range cams

Posted by St8 E on 25 July 2017 - 11:47 AM

Well even thou reflashing an ecu, adding a fuel tuner and a exhaust is great and needed in the quest of seeing more hp, i really don't think its a pants soiling experience. haha

Being with can am for over 10 years now and having built many builds, you get to see what makes good power and what does'nt. Having over 90 hours on a dyno and 7 builds over these years teaches you things that someone that has not done this would never know what they are getting in the performance department.

There really is no such thing as mid range cams.  Most good cams give you great low end, mid range and high end results. All cams make the most power at a certain rpm. Mild cams make power to a lower rpm and therefore your shiftout from your clutches will be lower and you will make less torque and power.As you go up in cam profile you also increase hp and torque because higher rpm cams will make power at a higher rpm and therefore give you more Torque and HP at a higher rpm. Cams will have a few small differences in what you will see low down, mid range and top end but in general cams should give you a flat line on the dyno graph. That is your best tune, if you can keep power up there over the whole rpm range.

Stock machines in general make the most power at around 7200- 7700 rpm depending which machine you have and what year. When you do mild cams you can see these cams making power anywhere from 7800 to 8000 rpm. Then cams that make even more power will want to see shiftouts of 8000+. Its not unlikely to see shiftouts in the 8300- 8600 rpm shiftouts on the clutches on high hp cams.

The best and first mod should really be clutches cause factory clutching is very inferior and you leave about 30% of the machines power on the line that you will never see transferred to the ground no matter what other mods you have done. Motor mods are really useless if you dont have good clutches that take that engine power and put it onto the ground via the rear tires. Aftermarket clutching is the only way to go if your a 100% performance minded person. Clutch kits do not work well on our machines and only improve performance about 10 to 15 %.



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#831986 2009 800r stm secondary helix recommendations

Posted by St8 E on 25 April 2017 - 07:12 AM

i think back when the stm secondary thing started most used the 50/40. Since then i think either a straight cut 40 or 45 is recommended, and I'm basing that off running 25 to 26 inch tires, trail riding or woods racing application. Big tire, mudding or pit racing may require something diffrent .

I would like to try out one of these 40 or 45 helix's, just to see if I notice anything....I have been running the 50/40 since 2010, as I am one of the "old school" STM Secondary owners...

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#831138 The search begins

Posted by St8 E on 16 April 2017 - 05:58 AM

Nice machine...will never understand why someone would take an Outty XXC and put 14" wheels, a big honking BRP box, and a set of Crutchfield's on it?!

As stated before, ditch those Crutchfield's...they are a HUGE downgrade from the KYB's

#829897 Wheel bearing Greaser's

Posted by St8 E on 07 April 2017 - 10:42 PM

What are your thoughts on this??

Seems like a pretty good thing to have around...

They are $40 on eBay...

#826066 QSC Rev X -vs- STM 3P Primary Clutch

Posted by St8 E on 22 February 2017 - 03:39 PM