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Rear Trailing Arm Removal


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#1 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:42 AM

I have to take the rear driver's side trailing arm off so that I can replace the CV boot. I did not buy the special spanner socket, rather used a 27mm socket and impact to remove with no problem. Now there is a part that I can't seem to get a good bite on to remove and wonder if anyone has before?

Here are pics of the part, it has an internal spline that slides onto the shaft. This is what holds the trailing arm on when the nut is secure. Anyone have a way of getting that off?? I tried getting a puller on it, but didn't have the right one.

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Edited by CamAMStrouse, 01 March 2010 - 11:49 AM.


#2 can-am 650

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:58 AM

I have to take the rear driver's side trailing arm off so that I can replace the CV boot. I did not buy the special spanner socket, rather used a 27mm socket and impact to remove with no problem. Now there is a part that I can't seem to get a good bite on to remove and wonder if anyone has before?

Here are pics of the part, it has an internal spline that slides onto the shaft. This is what holds the trailing arm on when the nut is secure. Anyone have a way of getting that off?? I tried getting a puller on it, but didn't have the right one.



You dont have to removeTHE armt. REMOVE BOTH WHEELS, HUB NUTS AND SHOCKS FROM TRAILING ARM BRACKETS AND LOWER THE TRAILING ARM THE AXLE WILL BE ACCESSIBLE FOR REMOVAL. JUST PRY AND PULL FROM DIFFERENTIAL. RENE1 HAS A WRITE UP SOMEHWERE.

Edited by can-am 650, 01 March 2010 - 12:04 PM.


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#3 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 01:18 PM

You dont have to removeTHE armt. REMOVE BOTH WHEELS, HUB NUTS AND SHOCKS FROM TRAILING ARM BRACKETS AND LOWER THE TRAILING ARM THE AXLE WILL BE ACCESSIBLE FOR REMOVAL. JUST PRY AND PULL FROM DIFFERENTIAL. RENE1 HAS A WRITE UP SOMEHWERE.



I SAW rene's write up and some others. It seems that everybody agrees that the right side is shorther and therfor easier to do as you mentioned. With this being the left side, and outter boot, it appears to be easier to remove the trailing arm, and some say that it is only possible to get to this particular boot by removing the trailing arm.

I guess I'll break down and remove all the other stuff from the right and give it a try, just seemed like more work to do all that than to just take the trailing arm off...

#4 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 02:54 PM

You must have to stress the crap out of something to remove CV without taking trailing arm off. I tried the swift kick down, it just doesn't seem like it wants to come. i even tried it on the right side which is supposed to be the easier side to do this.

So back to my original question, How do you get the cast aluminum piece off so that you can remove the trailing arm??

#5 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 03:08 PM

ok, got the cv out without taking the trailing arm off.

I had to put the axle nut back on before the swift kick down and the cv popped out the diff...


i would still like to know what holds that other part on the trailing arm.

#6 crewdog506

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 03:42 PM

The 27 mm nut only hold the key on for the torsion bar. There is a spanner nut ( metric ) underneath all of that, you need the special socket to get it off, it's similar to a axle nut found on Fords and Chevys with locking front hubs. I used a 3/4 chevy socket that I modded a little (6 hours of work), get the correct socket, much easier and works better, if you find that you need to get it off.

#7 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:00 PM

HEY crewdog, how do you get the other stuff off to get to that spanner nut???


I had found this video and was using it for some guidance to get everything apart.



I ended up making a custom brass punch with a hole on the side of it to allow at least 50% contact around the bearing to tap it off the shaft & circlip. Now I don't know if my circlip is different than what they show in that video, but I gave it a couple blows and off it came, broke the heck out of it. Check out this circlip, there was no way this was coming off without breaking. It looks more like a snapring. Anyways, that circlip woudn't compress enough to allow the spline to get over it. I mean it's almost like the groove on the shaft wasn't deep enough to allow the circlip to compress enough to remove the CV.

Anyone else have this problem? Did I miss something?

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#8 crewdog506

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:08 PM

I don't know about the circlip thing, because that is axle related, never had mine out...as far as the torsion keys, torsion bar, spanner nut and such goes....

take the 27 mm nut off the end of the torsion bar, also called the sway bar.
To remove the torsion keys (the part with the arrow pointing up), take a block of wood, or a rubber mallet and tap the sway bar from one side to the other, that will free it up, then you can remove the torsion key.
Then there is a snap ring on the end of the shaft where the spanner nut is, remove that
Remove the spanner nut and pull the trailing arm off, after you disconnect the axle of course.

If you look at the parts breakdown available on this site, you will see the parts required to take the trailing arm off, or consult and service manual if you have one, there was a link to a free one on here somewhere, I downloaded it and saved it to my computer, for future reference.

#9 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:28 PM

Thanks, Crewdog. I have a parts manual that I work from. I didn't want to force the torsion key off.

I measure the diameter of the circlip ON THE SHAFT, and got .997".

I measured the INSIDE of the CV joint, and got .896, a difference of .1" (about 2.5mm for you metric guys).

Now I forced the clip off and measure the THICKNESS of the clip about .059"

I measure the GROOVE which the clip sits in .872"

That would mean that the smallest diameter of the CV joint (measured .896" above) would need to be, at the minimum, .872 + (.059*2)= .990"

So it is physically impossible to compress this clip enough for the CV joint to slide off without breaking the CV joint.


I MUST BE MISSING SOMETHING!!! PLEASE HELP!! I can only laugh now that I broke a $130 part.

#10 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:30 PM

here are some pics of the measurements...sorry some aren't very clear.

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#11 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:32 PM

groove

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#12 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:55 PM

Another pic to back this up, look at the groove for the clip, it is barely as deep as the smallest diameter of the spline on the shaft.

Upon looking at everything even closer, I think what is supposed to happen is the clip is supposed to spread open and come off with the CV joint.

I measure 1.110" inside the CV Joint. That would make max separation of the clip at .992 and the OD of the spline is about .950", plenty of clearance!


I am used to seeing the clips compress in, not out...Interesting...

Word to the wise taking thier CV's apart, try and pry that clip OPEN and you should be able to GENTLY (haha) tap the Cv off the shaft. Live and learn with this one. That grrove should really have a bigger chamfer on it to allow that clip to expand while being tapped off. It is such a sharp edge that it didn't allow the clip to expand into the CV joint enough to pass over the shaft spline.

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#13 CamAMStrouse

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 11:41 AM

Whatever you do, DO NOT POUND THE CV JOINT OFF THE SHAFT!!!!! I am working on a better write up on how to do this. There seems to be alot out there, some right, some wrong.

#14 ctuinstra

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Posted 23 April 2010 - 09:13 PM

HEY crewdog, how do you get the other stuff off to get to that spanner nut???


I had found this video and was using it for some guidance to get everything apart.



I ended up making a custom brass punch with a hole on the side of it to allow at least 50% contact around the bearing to tap it off the shaft & circlip. Now I don't know if my circlip is different than what they show in that video, but I gave it a couple blows and off it came, broke the heck out of it. Check out this circlip, there was no way this was coming off without breaking. It looks more like a snapring. Anyways, that circlip woudn't compress enough to allow the spline to get over it. I mean it's almost like the groove on the shaft wasn't deep enough to allow the circlip to compress enough to remove the CV.

Anyone else have this problem? Did I miss something?

I glad I can learn from your mistake. You did a lot of measuring and investigating as to why you can hammer it off; but if you look at the groove in the race, it's not champfered therefor it's not going to even try to compress the ring. I realize you didn't know this ahead of time, but it proves that it's not designed to be hammered off.

#15 ozymax

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Posted 24 April 2010 - 12:29 AM

That is a real bumber that you broke the joint.
I just looked it up in the manual and it states that you move apart circlip.
If in doubt consult the book I say.
Great pics of the circlip area, much better than the manual.
Hopefully this won't happen to anyone else after posting this up.

Attached File  Image1.jpg   107.1KB   17 downloads

#16 BrianIdaho

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Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:02 PM

I'm in the midst of replacing the boot now. It looks like they made a design change to the CJ joint, mine doesn't have an exposed retaining ring like the one in Canamstrouse's pics. I'm working on the right, inner rear, maybe that's a different one. Anyway, I have the manual, there just isn't any clip to spread. I'm thinking the BFH approach like the videos is a requirement. I'm going to stop by the dealer with the shaft and ask the mechanic how they do it. Don't really want to blow the joint!

BTW, ain't that spanner nut a bi*ch? I modded a 4x4 spanner to fit like others have, still had to heat the nut to soften the locktite. Really worked the rattle wrench getting it off. BTW, I couldn't get the axle off by pulling the shock bolts and swinging the trailing arms down, not enough room to get the spline out of the rear diff. I like the 'Gade, but the old Grizzly was sure easier to work on.

Anyone know anything about 2 different sized bands (clamps) being used on the boots? My dealer mentioned this, they had the boot kit with wide bands in stock, wouldn't you know that mine has the thin ones. Any idea if the wide ones will seal here? Hoping to ride this weekend, it isn't happening if I have to order a different boot kit.

#17 ctuinstra

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 07:10 AM

My axles didn't have the clips like you showed in the picture. They were round wire c-clips that just popped in and out. Warning they don't always just pop back in. The new clip didn't want to go in and a 1/4" of it darn near sheared off trying to tap it in. I just put the original clip back on and it popped back in with no problems.

#18 Wolffmann34

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Posted 16 June 2010 - 08:45 AM

Yea, too bad I missed this thread and/or didn't read my manual before fixing a boot on my 05' 400, I had fixed numerous boots on newer Can Ams and just did what I always do and pounded it out, which of course meant the joint looked like strouses. But got a new joint and boot kit for 85 bucks from the CVMan and fixed it up.

Always good to keep up with all the threads on here.

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#19 BrianIdaho

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 03:35 PM

My axles didn't have the clips like you showed in the picture. They were round wire c-clips that just popped in and out. Warning they don't always just pop back in. The new clip didn't want to go in and a 1/4" of it darn near sheared off trying to tap it in. I just put the original clip back on and it popped back in with no problems.



Mine was like yours, I wonder if Renegade CVs are different than Outlanders? A brass punch and a sharp whack with a BFH and it popped right off. I'm wondering about my boot, it seems thinner had harder than the original, I hope it holds up.

#20 Red Good

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 10:09 PM

My outlander has no thin wire clip on the sliding side and no clip of any kind on the axle side . both front axles are in the hot tank now to get clean and see what we can see in the morning . Be nice to get a definitive answer on how these come apart . Red






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