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New 2017 1000R xtp build


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#1 story5253

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 07:58 PM

New to the forum and new to can am. So far I have about 70miles and 9 hours of riding. I have added the front center and rear can am skids. Also added the extreme front bumper. My ultimate goal is to turn this xtp into a xmrtp.

Upcoming add ons once funds permit A arm guards rear boot protectors and foot board skids. 2" handle bars riser. Exhaust and fuel tuner. I live in Texas and this thing is already hot. Clutching not sure which I ride a little bit of everything. Rode some technical stuff today and could smell the belt a bit. While I was in low 4x4. Is that normal?

When I do my first service should I change the stock belt out with the Maverick belt?

Also I'm looking into spring spacers to get some lift. Or can I just change the springs out with xmr springs or the hd springs can am has and get the extra height?

Here are some pics from today's ride.

91d150562513ddae892e6545ca993bd1.jpg898423f8202dc3d06a7cca6660cc2ad3.jpg27e019beee5d1fb3076a1d4a410628bb.jpg

e4a60a2bf0c76c43eabd782dec332c8d.jpg




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#2 Skioutty

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 09:37 PM

Nice machine & welcome to Can Am Talk!


150x150_forum_signature_alpha__0011_F-15  :rotating can-am:49a32012ba348129e43bc509332344f6.jpg

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#3 7shortmag

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 05:58 AM

New to the forum and new to can am. So far I have about 70miles and 9 hours of riding. I have added the front center and rear can am skids. Also added the extreme front bumper. My ultimate goal is to turn this xtp into a xmrtp.

Upcoming add ons once funds permit A arm guards rear boot protectors and foot board skids. 2" handle bars riser. Exhaust and fuel tuner. I live in Texas and this thing is already hot. Clutching not sure which I ride a little bit of everything. Rode some technical stuff today and could smell the belt a bit. While I was in low 4x4. Is that normal?

When I do my first service should I change the stock belt out with the Maverick belt?

Also I'm looking into spring spacers to get some lift. Or can I just change the springs out with xmr springs or the hd springs can am has and get the extra height?

Here are some pics from today's ride.

91d150562513ddae892e6545ca993bd1.jpg898423f8202dc3d06a7cca6660cc2ad3.jpg27e019beee5d1fb3076a1d4a410628bb.jpg

e4a60a2bf0c76c43eabd782dec332c8d.jpg




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Nice Machine!

There is no need for you to change your belt and "upgrade" to a Mav belt. Get a Gates30G3750 off ebay for 50 bucks and be done with it.

BRP belts are Waaaaaaaaayyy overpriced and the Gates G-Force is just as good.


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#4 story5253

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:47 PM

Nice Machine!
There is no need for you to change your belt and "upgrade" to a Mav belt. Get a Gates30G3750 off ebay for 50 bucks and be done with it.
BRP belts are Waaaaaaaaayyy overpriced and the Gates G-Force is just as good.



Thank you for the info on the belt. I was noticing how much higher they were than other brands. I also had been doing some searching on here and noticed belts to be a big topic. As well as what brand oil to run.

Seems like any automotive forum you get on there is always an argument about what oil to use. Lol




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#5 Velislide

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Posted 14 March 2017 - 01:18 AM

I've had amazing results with Rotella T6 in lots of different things, definitely a great oil. And since T6 is a 5w40 weight oil and fully synthetic, that's what I'm running in my 16' Outy 1000r. 



#6 xmr_800_2012

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Posted 14 March 2017 - 03:33 PM

Look into ricochet skid plates . Much better than can and skid plates . Iv had mind blowing results with royal purple oil in my transmission vs brp million dollar oil . My bike was so hard to shift half the time I'd leave it in gear to shut it off and start it in gear . Long story short I screwed up ,swamped it and than put royal purple in transmission . It shifts so easy I find my self throwing it in park when trying to go into reverse .since then I run royal purple oil bumper to bumper .

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Ricochet skid plates

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snorkel extensions

 

13151671_10156932595935080_3868773722378


#7 story5253

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Posted 14 March 2017 - 08:03 PM

Look into ricochet skid plates . Much better than can and skid plates . Iv had mind blowing results with royal purple oil in my transmission vs brp million dollar oil . My bike was so hard to shift half the time I'd leave it in gear to shut it off and start it in gear . Long story short I screwed up ,swamped it and than put royal purple in transmission . It shifts so easy I find my self throwing it in park when trying to go into reverse .since then I run royal purple oil bumper to bumper .

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I already have the front center and back can am skid plates. So I'll be getting the rest of the can am skids so everything fits up. Royal purple is my oil of choice as well. I use it in my truck.


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#8 story5253

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 01:41 PM

Question for those of you that have had can ams for a while. I have noticed that when it's hot outside as well as the bike. I get a fuel smell and it's very strong. I know it's coming from the vent tube from the tank to the pod. Is there something I can do to subdue the smell? I didn't have this problem on my sportsman.

Also those of you that change your own oil. When doing so do y'all use the can am oil filter or a different brand?


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#9 ozymax

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 06:20 PM

Question for those of you that have had can ams for a while. I have noticed that when it's hot outside as well as the bike. I get a fuel smell and it's very strong. I know it's coming from the vent tube from the tank to the pod. Is there something I can do to subdue the smell?

 

 

This was one of the first things I had to fix. Couldn't stand the fumes.

I routed the tank vent to be in front of the air intake and cable tied it in place. When the engine is running the fumes get drawn into the airbox.

 

Fuel pipe.jpg



#10 stovepiper

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 08:06 PM

Ozy your a genius. I'm all over that!



#11 ozymax

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 11:28 PM

:thumbs:



#12 story5253

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 09:25 PM

What do y'all use for cleaning the painted plastics? On my previous bike I just went to the car wash or go buy car soap.

Also I added the floor board protectors. Boy those are going to save me!

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Edited by story5253, 26 March 2017 - 09:34 PM.


#13 story5253

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 07:52 PM

Well been noticing while I trail ride my temp gauge on my xtp gets up to five blocks. That seems high to me. Of course I'm not sure what the temp is. Guess I need to take my temp gun with me and get a reading.

What are my options to get temps down. I live in Texas and we haven't begun to get hot yet. I have heard fuel tuner and exhaust but will that really get the coolant temp down?


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#14 xmr_800_2012

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:38 PM

Your rad plugged ? As for you other question I run royal purple front to back . My bike was impossible to shift with can am oil in transmission after I sunk it lol I out royal purple in it and was the best thing I ever done .

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snorkel extensions

 

13151671_10156932595935080_3868773722378


#15 story5253

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Posted 15 April 2017 - 07:12 PM

If it's plugged it's been plugged since out of the crate.


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#16 footy

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 06:07 AM

Keep the radiator as clean as possible and run either engine ice or Evans waterless coolant.  I have had great success with both.  Canams get hot.  With horse power comes heat.  A free flowing exhaust will help some but then its going to get louder. 

 

Also if you add a lift your handling will suffer some in technical riding and high speed riding.  Its hard to have a good trail machine and a good mud machine all in one atv. 



#17 story5253

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 01:06 PM

I'll have to look into the coolants you have suggested.

Exhaust is my dilemma right now for sure. I like the idea of dual rjwc but the price I'm not liking. I tend to like the deeper sound of the lte slip on. But have noticed on two different video clips where the plastic for the back box is melted. Might be a coincidence might not. I have heard hmf don't hold up.

Yeah it's hard to get the best of both worlds without buying two different machines.


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#18 Skioutty

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 04:58 PM

I'm a fan of Evans Waterless Coolant, I run it in my 08 Outlander and for me there is a seat of the pants difference. 


150x150_forum_signature_alpha__0011_F-15  :rotating can-am:49a32012ba348129e43bc509332344f6.jpg

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#19 25TH INFANTRY

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 12:36 PM

Can Ams run hot from the factory. First wrap your exhaust with thermo tec header wrap. Use the two inch wide and double wrap it, then spray it down with DEI silicon header wrap silicone spray. That will cure the problem by 75%. Call jeff ross at Bom racing and get a fuel controller or RVS performance and get a ecm Reflash which will add fuel for a slip on and lower the temp at which time the fan comes on. 

 

Ive always had good luck with stock belts but when the time comes to change out get the gates carbon as there just as good and cheaper.

 

I've also have had good luck with just the regular green or yellow antifreeze, the problem with the other stuff is if you run in to a problem and you need to add most likely you screwed as places out in the middle of no where wont have the fancy stuff.

 

the best thing you can do for the heat and the cheapest is wrap the exhaust, make sure to use the original black kind and not the titanium as its not as durable,  and add the blinky box fuel controller from BOM. 



#20 story5253

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 09:05 PM

I have finally decided that I'm going to go with RJWC single slip on. As well as Thebomracing tuner.

Thanks for the info on the wrap. I have heard mixed reviews about it rusting out the pipes. But I figure as long as it's not put up wet it shouldn't be a problem.

Now to just get it all ordered this week.


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