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Oneway Bearings INSTALL....


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#1 ..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 10:23 AM

well there has been alot of people wanting to replace their bearings in the oneway for easy shifting. I must say it does help...probably by about 80%. makes for a smoother shift and no more humping...well hump if you like...

***PLEASE NOTE*** This is for the 800 Outlander or Renegade. the 650, 500 and 400 could be different...for example the 400 Owners.... The primary bolt is a Left hand thread and there is no friction washer.

the type of bearings I am using are RBL and part number is 61808 2RS, I received the bearings from rene1 Performance for a smoken deal. So if anyone needs bearings and does not know where to get them pm rene1. And get your gade mudflaps now I hear he has a sale...Other part numbers are 6808 2RS. Just DO NOT use NTN bearings those are the same bearings that are in the oneway to begin with....junk :)

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Here is a small video of the difference between the bearings...(excuse my boy in the background on the monitor ahha)

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So I am going to do this "How to" right from the beginning (taking the belt off to the finish) so those who know how to do the beginning stuff bare with me for the people that have never even seen their clutches before.

STEP 1

So first you have to take the cover off your CVT. For renegade owners this is easier than outty owners. for the gaders you just have to undo all the torque screws that hold the cover on (8mm socket or torque bit...not sure on size) and then pull the cover off. For you outty owners you will have to take off the footwell and then take the cover off. so it will take a few more mins, but still easy.

this is what it will look like with the cover off. Primary is on the left and Secondary is on the right.

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STEP 2

Take the belt off. You will need a bolt at least 3" long and M8 1.25 threads. it is a 1/2 socket to install and un-install. I have about a 5" bolt thanks to Cruzman ont he forum :)

something like this

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Now on the secondary there is 3 holes on the front ONLY 1 has threads in it that will allow you to install the bolt. I install the bold by hand first so I dont cross thread or damage the threads in anyway. Once you started the bolt then you can use an impact or what ever you like. Becareful if you have a longer bolt than 3" that you dont spread them to far. Im not sure if it will hurt it if its to far but I just do enough to get the belt out with ease...

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Now the belt will be loose and you can just work it off...

STEP 3 coming next post.....please dont reply till im done

Edited by ..stiffler.., 12 February 2010 - 08:12 AM.

Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#2 ..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 10:32 AM

STEP 3

Now to remove the primary. Of course the easiest way would be to have a primary holder from your dealer. They are about $60 CND. to rich for me haha. So I use a screw driver to hold it and pull iti off. Again thanks to rene1 Performance for this tip :)

here is where I place it to remove the primary



Now once you have loosened the bolt sometime the primary will stick and not come off with the bolt. If this is the case (like mine) then un-thread the bolt just a bit like so...

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Then take a rubber mallet and tap the primary. You dont need to hit it hard...but just enough to make the primary come out against the bolt...Like so...

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Then just undo the bolt and the primary will pop off. Becareful when taking out the bolt...sometimes the primary will POP off...but it is not that bad. The secondary is the one you have to watch...

STEP 4

Now once the Primary is off you will see the hole setup...it will look like this...

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now in the first picture of STEP 4 there is a spring dust cap against the oneway bearing. You have to pull this off. when you pull it off there is a black plastic type friction washer in between the cap and the oneway. you can take that off but look at it and make sure it is installed the same way you took it off. there is a little groove in the one side that should face the oneway bearing.

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STEP 5 coming next post....again please dont reply till im finished...

Edited by ..stiffler.., 29 July 2009 - 11:32 AM.

Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#3 ..stiffler..

..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 10:46 AM

STEP 5

now that you have everything off and your looking at the oneway it is time to take that sucker off. now the oneway will turn pretty much oneway...you turn it clockwise I believe and it will spin there and you will hear clicking. that is normal cause the caps and springs that are sitting under the oneway are dragging along the inside of the oneway. Now if you spin it the other way it will start to pull away from the back sheeve, this is how you remove the oneway. Turn it until it stops and then you have to turn it the otherway jsut about 1/2 an inch and then pull it off. Now do this really slow. there is 2 caps and 2 springs under the caps under the oneway that will pop out and go everywhere. if you lose these they are not cheap to replace. so pull the oneway out slow and then listen and feel for the caps, when you feel one the other one is on the exact opposite side of the other. pull the oneway off and then pull out the caps and springs..

like so..

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STEP 6

now for the oneway...

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So first off I wipe it all up and then I begin taking the bearings out. You do NOT need a press to do this...but you do need a hammer and a punch...on one side of the oneway the bearing is just sitting in there but on the other side you will see a small metal clip that holds the one bearing in. you can remove this with a finger nail it is easy to pull out.

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now to take the bearings out..place the oneway on a vise or something that will allow the bearing to come out of the oneway sleeve..

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STEP 6 cont.. Next post....again plese dont reply till im finished...
Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#4 ..stiffler..

..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 10:51 AM

STEP 6 Cont...

Make sure you move the punch around...dont just pound one part of the bearing...also make sure you dont damage the oneway sleeve...sorry pic is a bit blurry but hope you can see it....

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one down

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one to go

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Now clean the oneway sleeve right up..

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STEP 7

Now that you have it all clean, go ahead and install the new bearings. It does not matter what side of the bearing you have in or out they are the same. Also you do not have to lube up the bearing or the oneway sleeve where the bearing goes...

to install the bearing just place it in the hole where it goes and then tap it with a rubber mallet to get it set into place...

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once in place I just turn the punch around and tap the bearing to make sure it fits in there tight...like so

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repeat for the other side and then make sure you install that little metal snap ring in the right spot...just place it in there with your fingers no special tools..

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STEP 8 on the next post....im still not finished..pleasae dont reply :)
Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#5 ..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 11:10 AM

STEP 8

ok now to grease up all the right components and then re-install everything...Now im no pro at greasing this thing so I jus tdo what I think is right. If anyone has any feedback please post and either correct me or show how you do it...

first I clean all the parts (oneway, springs and caps, black friction washer and then all the other dirty parts) then lets apply the grease.

Now the grease I use is the isoflex which is what BRP calls for. Others have used syn grease and I believe it works well for them. Use what ever you like. I bought my grease from the guy over on aurawheels forum. I believe it was outlanderish. first I grease the oneway, I put 4 dabs of grease in the middle of the oneway and then rub it around with my finger...like so

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then i grease up the springs and caps..I put a fair amount of grease on them cause they are under the oneway and are always rubbing against something. I basically put a dab inside the cap and then put the spring in and push it in and put to cover the spring...(not 100% covered) and then I rub the access all over the outside of the cap.

Then I grease the black plastic friction washer. This thing you just want to put a light coating of lube on or it will spread all over your primary sheeves..(not good) so I just put a dab on my finger and rub it all over. I just make sure the hole washer is covered with a light film.

STEP 9

Now I re-install everything. First I put the springs and caps in the holes...(springs in the holes and caps facing out of course) then I hold them in...careful with this so that they dont spring out...they are slippery...then I put the oneway over top and you might have to twist it a bit but it will go over...then it will turn all the way on and your good...

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Then install the friction washer...the groove or ridge again facing towards the oneway and the flat part against the spring dust cap.

then I place the dust cap over the spring and then push the whole outer primary sleeve on. I push it in and then I turn the bolt by hand to thread it...once I haev threaded it in a fair amount I then use a socket to do the rest of the job...I do not use an impact on this part, MO is that it is to hard on all the components...but do what you like.

Now that it is all on you want to put the right amount of torque on the primary or you will have serious problems lol...the proper torque is 74 lb-ft and again i use the trusty screw driver to hold the primary and torque it...

REFER TO THE YOUTUBE VIDEO ABOVE and again THANKS TO RENE1 PERFORMANCE FOR THIS VIDEO AND TIP

and now once your all torqued up your finished..

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thanks

Stiff

If anyone has any suggestions or tips or any feed back please post it and help us all out...

Install bearings etc at your own risk...

Edited by ..stiffler.., 29 July 2009 - 11:33 AM.

Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#6 rene1

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 11:42 AM

stiff awsome job man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :) ....your going to become a very popular man, good work. :)

just pm with if you need tips on dealing with the fame......hahaa jk


 

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#7 rocketdog471

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 11:54 AM

FYI anyone with front brush gaurd a bolt out of the frount (4 that hold it on)
will spred it just enough to get the belt off. remember to put it back :)
Rocketdog

#8 ..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 12:06 PM

FYI anyone with front brush gaurd a bolt out of the frount (4 that hold it on)
will spred it just enough to get the belt off. remember to put it back :)


nice tip...for the outty I assume...or does the rene have this bolt as well.??
Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#9 gallopghost

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 12:21 PM

great job... at what milage should I go into my clutch.

#10 ..stiffler..

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 12:48 PM

great job... at what milage should I go into my clutch.


i do it every 500km or when I start to hear the whining sound from the clutching when in N or P....some people say once a year and some say once every 100 hrs...thats to long for me..I like mine shifting nice and I like it quite...

with the install of the bearings and the fresh grease there should be next to no whining when in N or P...
Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#11 mbarryracing

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 02:00 PM

stiffler,
nice job.

#12 BrianIdaho

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 10:08 AM

Very nice, clear writeup, thanks for that. It's so much easier going into something like this knowing what to expect. Manuals are often to limited in detail.

Also good to see the tip on how often this maintenance should be performed. You're really doing this every 500 km or so? That will have me swapping 5-6 times a year. That will make for plenty of practice, ought to get pretty quick at it.

What other clutch service do these clutches need? The primary looks similar to a snowmobile one, with kidney weights, buttons and rollers, rather than the greased roller setup Yammie uses. I usually go through snowmobile clutches every 500 miles or so.

Edited by BrianIdaho, 30 July 2009 - 10:11 AM.


#13 ..stiffler..

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 01:52 PM

Very nice, clear writeup, thanks for that. It's so much easier going into something like this knowing what to expect. Manuals are often to limited in detail.

Also good to see the tip on how often this maintenance should be performed. You're really doing this every 500 km or so? That will have me swapping 5-6 times a year. That will make for plenty of practice, ought to get pretty quick at it.

What other clutch service do these clutches need? The primary looks similar to a snowmobile one, with kidney weights, buttons and rollers, rather than the greased roller setup Yammie uses. I usually go through snowmobile clutches every 500 miles or so.


actually on the maintenance with the clutches I dont actually switch the bearings out every 500km...I just take it all apart and lube the oneway and clean the clutches...changing the bearings to the after market ones are or should be a one time thing...maybe down the road you will have to take the bearings out and switch them but hopefully not for a good 10,000km or more...

so every 500km or so I take the clutches apart and clean them and scuff the sheeves with scotch brite pads...just make sure everything is working and spinning well...and make sure no dirt in there...and grease the oneway...

thats all...the bearings are there to stay...

Stiff

PS and yeah the clutches are really close to a snowmobiles..

Edited by ..stiffler.., 30 July 2009 - 01:52 PM.

Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#14 DaveB

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 03:48 PM

Good write up Stifster....I may forgive you for posting the thong riders vid. LOL.

Pain or damage don't end the world. Or despair, or f*cking beatings. The world ends when you're dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store. Stand it like a man... and give some back.


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#15 ozymax

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 06:21 PM

Sensational job Stiffler. B)
This needs to be a Pinned topic.

Edited by ozymax, 30 July 2009 - 06:34 PM.


#16 digger

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 02:10 PM

Awsome job stiffy!!! Now I'll be more willing to give mine a try! Been humping the hell out of mine latley and getting tired of it.
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#17 HIGHTECH REDNECK

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:35 AM

Thanks for the demo got mine all apart going to do the one way bearing too make it a little less whinning

#18 OUTTY3

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:14 PM

awesome :)
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#19 ..stiffler..

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 10:26 PM

BTT

just for those who havent seen this and would like some help...
Posted Image

2012 Camo Commander 1000 XT
Mods:
-28" Zillas on 14" Diesels
-///AIRDAM Primary
-STM Secondary
-EZ Steer PS
-Pro Armor Doors
-X Fox Shocks
-Half Windshield
-Sport Roof / Rear Screen
-SSV OH Stereo
-PPS Snorkels
-HD Bumper
-Rock Sliders
-Billet Lift and Shifter
-Bash Plate

#20 scoobienorth

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 11:10 PM

yeah good timing thanks i am just getting ready to do mine, i have never had mine apart since new and it is a 2005. i think it is pooped.
stop in and visit my youtube page at http://www.youtube.c...er/rubiconnorth




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